Learning to Surf

June 1, 2015

may2015-iceland-108 (1 of 1)may2015-iceland-109 (1 of 1)may2015-iceland-83 (1 of 1)may2015-iceland-105 (1 of 1)“The aim is to balance the terror of being alive with the wonder of being alive.”
― Carlos Castaneda

Wax

June 1, 2015

may2015-iceland-78 (1 of 1)“We either make ourselves miserable, or we make ourselves strong. The amount of work is the same.”
― Carlos Castaneda

Partners

June 1, 2015

may2015-iceland-80 (1 of 1)“A path is only a path, and there is no affront, to oneself or to others, in dropping it if that is what your heart tells you . . . Look at every path closely and deliberately. Try it as many times as you think necessary. Then ask yourself alone, one question . . . Does this path have a heart? If it does, the path is good; if it doesn’t it is of no use.”
― Carlos Castaneda

Getting Ready to Surf

June 1, 2015

may2015-iceland-99 (1 of 1)may2015-iceland-103 (1 of 1)may2015-iceland-104 (1 of 1)may2015-iceland-100 (1 of 1)“If I seem to wander, if I seem to stray, remember that true stories seldom take the straightest way”
― Patrick Rothfuss

After

May 31, 2015

may2015-iceland-81 (1 of 1)“This story is for all the slightly broken people out there. I am one of you. You are not alone. You are all beautiful to me.”
― Patrick Rothfuss

Perfect Summer Days

July 6, 2014

july2014-sunset-10 (1 of 1)july2014-sunset-45 (1 of 1)“The edge of the sea is a strange and beautiful place.”
― Rachel Carson

London to LA

July 6, 2014

july2014-sunset-16 (1 of 1)“In every outthrust headland, in every curving beach, in every grain of sand there is the story of the earth.”
― Rachel Carson

Sunset Surf Crew

July 6, 2014

july2014-sunset-14 (1 of 1)july2014-sunset-06 (1 of 1)july2014-sunset-41 (1 of 1)july2014-sunset-43 (1 of 1)july2014-sunset-12 (1 of 1)july2014-sunset-33 (1 of 1)july2014-sunset-04 (1 of 1)

“To stand at the edge of the sea, to sense the ebb and flow of the tides, to feel the breath of a mist moving over a great salt marsh, to watch the flight of shore birds that have swept up and down the surf lines of the continents for untold thousands of years, to see the running of the old eels and the young shad to the sea, is to have knowledge of things that are as nearly eternal as any earthly life can be.”
— Rachel Carson

Surf Babe

July 6, 2014

july2014-sunset-01 (1 of 1)“Grey rocks, and greyer sea,
And surf along the shore —
And in my heart a name
My lips shall speak no more. ”
— Charles George Douglas Roberts

SanO

June 30, 2014

20140630-142108-51668853.jpg“I have sea foam in my veins, I understand the language of waves.” –Le Testament d’Orphée, by Jean Cocteau.